No, not that kind of acid. I’m talking about the kind of acid that exfoliates, brightens, and tightens the skin. Yass, kween.
All my life, I associated exfoliation with abrasive scrubs. Did anyone else love St. Ives? I had that scrub on repeat in high school.
That said, there are actually two types of exfoliation – mechanical and chemical.
Mechanical exfoliation involves a physical, abrasive scrub in a grainy or beaded texture. The technique dates back thousands of years; in fact, American Indians used dried corncobs and ancient Polynesians used crushed sea shells.
Chemical exfoliation removes dead skin cells with acids that assist cell turnover. And it’s all the rage. While technology and ingredients continue to improve, the concept dates back as far as ancient Egypt. It’s rumored Cleopatra bathed in sour milk to reap the benefits of lactic acid. It sounds gross but, like, show up to glow up, sister.
Now that we’ve explained the differences between mechanical and chemical exfoliation, it’s also important to note that not every acid is created equal (le duh). Earlier versions of acid-based treatments made skin visibly patchy and flaky following treatments. The latest formulas, however, leave skin looking firmer, plumper, and the closest you’ll get to looking like your favorite snapchat filter. You know what I’m talking about.
Let’s take a closer look at the most popular exfoliating acids on the market.
AHAs and BHAs
Alpha hydroxy acids, abbreviated by AHAs, derive from natural substances and are ideal for exfoliating dry skin, since they remove the binding that holds dead skin cells together. AHAs are great for dry skin because they’re water soluble. This type of acid can’t penetrate very deep into pores.
Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs), however, are oil-soluble molecules. They penetrate deeper into the skin and pores and are ideal for acne-prone, oily skin. Got blackheads? BHAs are your friend. Skincare professionals love BHAs for their anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties. Woo!
Now, within AHAs and BHAs are subcategories that target specific beauty blunders. Get ready.
Glycolic Acid
Derived from sugarcane, glycolic acid is part of the AHA group. It’s great for people with oily or acne prone skin as the molecules gently dissolve dead skin. It’s also celebrated for its ability to reduce hyper pigmentation and fine lines.
Salicylic Acid
Part of the BHA group, salicylic acid is extracted from willow bark and packs anti-inflammatory, anti-acne, and exfoliating properties. The acid is best for oily, acne prone skin but is also recommended for people with normal to dry skin to fight the occasional breakout.
Lactic Acid
Lactic acid is a gentle AHA derived from milk. It’s an ideal choice for those with sensitive skin as it also has a moisturizing element. Benefits include reducing fine lines and hyperpigmentation.
Absorbic Acid
A fancy name for vitamin C, ascorbic acid is a powerful antioxidant that reduces fine lines while it simultaneously fights free-radicals. It’s great for all skin types and is celebrated for its brightening effects.
Hyaluronic Acid
I was reluctant to include this on the list because it’s commonly confused as an exfoliant. However, hyaluronic acid is actually here to hydrate and plump the skin. It’s the perfect addition to your anti-aging skincare regimen.
The acids I just described are some of the most popular acids in the game and act as a great intro to chemical exfoliation. Without further ado, here are the products in my rotation – I hope you give them a go!
1 of 4
Exfoliating Enzyme Peel
Doll Face, $24
Active Ingredients: AHA & BHA complex combines Lactic and Glycolic Acid to effectively take off the dead & dull surface cells. Natural Pumpkin Enzymes help super-stimulate cell turn-over and vitamin C is an anti-oxidant powerhouse that stimulates collagen production, brightens skin, and helps diminish signs of aging.
Directions: Evenly spread on clean face & neck. Leave on for 3-5 minutes (it will start to tingle!). Once complete, wash face with cold water and follow with moisturizer.
2 of 4
Refine: Peel Away Perfecting Mask
Doll Face, $18
Active Ingredients: Super FruitActiv & Citrus Enzymes brighten and refine skin as green tea reduces inflammation. Hyaluronic acid hydrates and plumps skin. What more could you want?
Directions: Apply to clean face for 5-10 minutes. Gently peel the mask away from the outer corners of your face to reveal replenished skin. Rinse skin with cold water.
3 of 4
Skin Balancing Mask
Goldfaden MD, $75
Active Ingredients: Rich in botanicals, the mask features a multi-peptide and enzyme blend that aids in refining pores while simultaneously making skin appear plumper and feel more firm. Ginseng, Honey, Flower Extracts, Jojoba Oil and Vitamin E infuse moisture, vitality and nourishment back into the skin. The mask leaves your skin looking refined, feeling smooth and appearing flawless. Good for all skin types.
Directions: On clean skin, apply an even layer to face and neck. Leave on for 10-15 minutes. Rinse thoroughly with warm water and pat dry. For optimal results, use 2-3 times per week.
4 of 4
40% Glycolic Acid Peel for Acne, Scars, Age Spots & Lines
Skin Obsession, $18
Warning: Proceed. With. Caution. I almost didn’t include this guy on the list. If used improperly, you can really burn your skin. That said, please seek the advice of a medical professional before following the directions below.
Active Ingredients: 40% glycolic acid provides a deep exfoliation that cleanses pores, clears blackheads, and fades dark spots. It is also known to assist cell turnover, stimulate collagen, and improve skin texture.
Prep: You’ll need cotton pads or a brush, a skin neutralizer, and a heavy emollient moisturizer to follow the peel.
DIY Skin Neutralizer: You can skip the store bought variety by making your own skin neutralizer. All you need to do is mix 1/2 cup baking soda with 2 cups water.
Directions: Apply to your face using a cotton pad or fan brush. Make sure to avoid active breakouts and open skin. You will also want to steer clear of your eyes, lips, and nostrils. For your first application, allow the acid to sit for 30 seconds max. Next, wash your face with cold water and apply your neutralizer. If your face is still red, continue to cool down your face with cold water. Pat dry and end the treatment with a heavy moisturizer.
Note: Your skin will tingle and will look a little pink. If your skin begins to look extremely red/blotchy, neutralize immediately.
Repeat: Wait 2-3 weeks between performing this peel. In time, you can gradually leave the acid on your skin for longer.
What kind of skincare products are on your self right now? Share your recs in the comments below!
